Assignment 3 - Underwear - Singlet

For our next assignment we are focussing on underwear, more specifically a singlet.

Style

This singlet is bought in Kvickly for 59,95 DKK. The brand of our singlet is Units Underwear. Units underwear have a clear idea of their brand and products - “The quality is in focus. You will experience a perfect durability and fit at a competitive price". It is an attractive alternative to the luxury and more expensive brands. 

Desired properties of underwear

One of the most important properties for underwear like this is comfort, because this is an item to wear under other clothes.

The underwear should also keep its nice appearance. This means that the colourfastness test would be always done in order to secure the colours and the look. The underwear we have chosen is however white. This means we can not test the colour fastness. Therefore, we will look upon another important property of the underwear - the good insulation of it. This is especially important when using the underwear to keep warm in the winter. 

Composition

100% Cotton

Using cotton for underwear

As we know, cotton is a very popular and a low cost fibre. This makes it very preferable in all kinds of clothing, also underwear. Cotton gives a light comfortable feel, which is what we are looking for in our item.

Looking at the insulation properties, we should consider that cotton is not the most insulating material for underwear, especially when wet. It does not transport moisture away from the skin, therefore it can cause discomfort in case of sweating etc.. Therefore, use of other material like wool or a blend would be a better solution if the item would be used in more cold months.

The reason they have chosen to make this underwear from 100% cotton, is because they have chosen to put focus on lightness and price. It would however be possible to reduce price even further and get different properties with blend with other materials.

Production cycle for a cotton singlet

We will go through some of the steps in the cycle and explain how this singlet is made.

Structure 

This singlet is made from weft knitted fabrics. It is made from single yarns that are fed crosswise to the length of the fabric. A weft knitted fabric can be unravelled. The singlet is knitted in a 1/1 rib.

Ribbing is often used for garment that should have a more form-fitting.

The reason the 1/1 rib was chosen is that it is gives a more stretchy feeling to a 100% cotton singlet like this and creates the fitted shape. The elasticity depends on the number of knit/wales transitions; 1x1 ribbing is more elastic than 2x2 ribbing.

The weight of the fabric is 131g / sq. m. 

Finish

The singlet is a fabric-bleached garment.

Measurements and fitting

After being washed the singlet has lost 4,5cm in the length. This means it shrank 10,7% of the start length. This is quite a lot but that is one of the properties we know that cotton has. You can often experience a 5-10% shrinkage from the first wash of a cotton garment. The bottom is now 3cm wider and the waist 2cm. This means that it has lost some of the fit after being washed.

The fit is also even more “twisted” at the seams around the arms, than it was before washing. 

Wrinkle and look after wash 

After washing our singlet is has got some small creased, but not more than expected and it would be visually when wearing the singlet. 

Tests

1. Colour fastness test - ISO 105 C06
 A2S

After 1 wash. 40°C, 30 min, 10 steel balls, flat dry. 
Ece B detergent+sodium perborat (1 g/l), Stiched to Multifibre DW wool

Maximum requirements width and length ± 5%

Width +8,1 % - Not approved

Length -10,7 % - Not approved 

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING;

EKOTEKS 4(*)


After 1 wash no obvious deterioration was observed. General appearance of the washed sample was approved. Small creased, but not anything which wasn’t satisfying. 

2. Bursting test - ISO 13938-1

The result of the bursting test is 187 kPA. This is below 200 which is the standard most purchaser stick to when determining the strength of the material. Having in mind that it is underwear though and there will be no dramatical pressure or stretching while usage, there should be no problem in sticking to the lower result.